A Mini Walk around Muswell Hill
Getting there:
For those arriving by car there are public car parks, for a small charge, behind the entrance to the Green Man Pub, the entrance to the Odeon cinema, and behind Marks and Spencer’s in the Broadway. The entrance to The Green Man Pub car park is on the east side at the top of Muswell Hill, the entrance to the Odeon car park is at the northerly end of Muswell Hill Road - just before the junction with Fortis Green Road - and the entrance to the M & S one is from Summerland Gardens - a short turning on the South side of the Broadway. No parking meters exist but side streets near the shopping areas tend to be rather full.
Those coming by public transport can arrive by W7 bus from Finsbury Park Tube Station; by 102 or 299 bus from Bounds Green Tube Station; by 43 or 134 bus from Highgate Tube Station; or by 144 or 144A bus from Turnpike Lane Tube Station. Those visiting the Palace can take a W3 from Wood Green. Apart from the W3, all the buses pass through or terminate in Muswell Hill Broadway.
Looking Around:
St James’ Church, with its tall spire, is a notable landmark in the Broadway, situated at the junction with St James’ Lane, Muswell Hill Road and Fortis Green Road. This was built between 1902 and 1910 to replace an earlier Anglican church on the site.
Use the pedestrian crossing to walk over to the Odeon cinema, which dates from 1936. Across the road is Sainsbury’s supermarket and to its left an Edmondson parade of shops inscribed “St James’ Parade 1900”. This parade contains a well stocked book shop, a toy shop and 2 good music stores.
Cross the road to the Sainsbury’s side and then walk to the right along the Broadway. Note the attractive townscape with Edwardian domes and features. Pause a moment, opposite the first turning on the right, which is Hillfield Park, also laid out by Edmondson. This gives a fine view of London and the Thames Valley below. First left on the Broadway is Princes Avenue, where on one corner is the former 1902-built Presbyterian church, which was saved from demolition by public opposition because of its architectural value. It has subsequently been made into a pub and the church hall behind has been converted into flats.
Crossing Princes Avenue, perhaps noticing the date 1897 on the end of the next parade of shops. This has been called Muswell Hill’s birth certificate, as it is the first parade put up by Edmondson. Across the road is Marks and Spencer’s food hall, with some surviving Victorian upper facades. On the left is “Martyn’s” shop. This coffee and provisions store has traded here since 1897 and retains many original fittings - the roasting coffee smell will draw you in!
At the corner, on the left, is Queens Avenue, which was Edmondson’s principal avenue. The first building on the left is Muswell Hill Library, built here in 1931 on the site of the former fire station. Use the pedestrian crossing to the other side and you will see the corner building, which was erected in 1898 as the London and Provincial Bank, and is now occupied by Barclays Bank. In Queens Avenue is a granite water trough - which, when provided in 1902 for the horses, stood in the roundabout - but today the buses now occupy the spot!
Turning left, passing the bank and the shops, leads you to the top of Colney Hatch Lane, which is now part of Muswell Hill Broadway. Notice the surviving 19th century façades behind the single storey shops opposite; these were once houses known as Castle Villas. Cross by the pelican crossing to Muswell Hill post office and return to the roundabout, passing Woolworth’s on the way.
Our offices - Estate Agents at 336-338 Muswell Hill Broadway - are situated on the corner of The Exchange and the first turning on the right, Dukes Avenue.
A walk down Dukes Avenue reveals the richness of Edwardian period architecture. A notable turning is Elms Avenue - which is the second on the left - with some very attractive facades. Returning to the roundabout, on the other side you will notice the red brick Baptist church, built in 1902.
Continue left at the roundabout down Muswell Hill and stop outside the Green Man Pub and admire the view over the Lea Valley. The pub itself can trace history back at least to Tudor times, when it was a small stone built inn; its name refers to the forest workers. Next to the Green Man Pub is the former site of Muswell Hill railway station, now occupied by Muswell Hill Primary School. Beyond it, by the bus stop, is the pedestrian entrance both to the Park and to a subway which leads to the Parkland Walk.
If time allows, you must go into Alexandra Park. If you walk through The Grove and down to the road in the park - the W3 bus route - you will see, on the hill opposite, the Palm Court entrance to The Palace. Walk up, and enjoy the panoramic views from the south terrace.
Those wishing to view the Rookfield Estate should proceed down Muswell Hill, preferably crossing by the subway, and take the fourth turning on the right, which is Cascade Avenue. One doesn't need to go very far into this garden estate to appreciate its virtues and attractions, for peaceful family living.
Return to the Broadway can be made from the bus stop half way down the hill, which faces across to some preserved trees and a rural area by the entrance lodge to Grove Lodge, a 19th century villa which lies behind the trees.
From St James’ Church, a short walk down Muswell Hill Road brings you to Queens and Highgate Woods, where there is an extensive children’s playground and an “all day restaurant” - they make wonderful breakfasts!
Beyond the woods is Highgate Tube Station - hop on a 43 or 134 bus to get to Muswell Hill Broadway.
From St James’ Church, you can walk along Fortis Green Road, passing the Odeon cinema, noticing the John Baird Pub on the right.
By the traffic lights, other well designed “Collins built” blocks of flats, from the early 1920’s, in red brick, face each other. Fortis Green, the road on the left, leads to East Finchley Tube Station, which is within walking distance, or you can jump on a 102 bus. Along Fortis Green other “Collins built” blocks of mansion flats of differing dates can be seen.
The turnings to the South side of Fortis Green contain magnificent “Collins built” period houses, and Twyford Avenue and the adjacent roads on the North side have well-built, spacious and interesting 1930’s houses. This enclave is known as the Ringwood Estate.
Further on towards East Finchley is the surviving 19th century village, with period houses on the South side in Eastern, Southern and Western Roads.
Continuing North from Fortis Green Road, over the traffic lights, you enter Tetherdown. The 1898 Congregational Church on the right, was built in the grounds of The Limes, once a formidable estate. On the left-hand side just beyond it is the Muswell Hill United Synagogue, built in 1965.
Pages Lane, on the right hand side corner, still boasts a few pretty 1860’s built cottages. This turning leads to a convent and to Our Lady of Muswell Primary School.
Beyond are the grounds of North Bank, a large acreage of land donated to the Methodist Church, and within these grounds is the oldest living “resident” of Muswell Hill, a 350-year-old chestnut tree. It stands behind Whitehall Court, the white 1930’s built block mentioned earlier.
North Bank is a late 19th century villa, onto which the Methodist constructed a new church in 1985. In the grounds are The Methodist old people’s homes and on the corner of Colney Hatch Lane is the National Methodist Youth Centre, built in 1959.
A circular walk around Muswell Hill can be finished by turning right, passing some surviving mid-19th century villas and Our Lady of Muswell Roman Catholic Church to return to the shopping parades.
The turning on the left before the first shops is Muswell Road. At No. 40 is a small plaque marking it as the original site of “The Well” - now long gone, but not forgotten!
